Water Pump Change (Part 1/3)
Page 1, 2,
After a leak that had been going on for a couple months,
I decided I would go after changing out the water pump. I also wanted
to flush out the entire coolant system as this hadn't been done
since I had the car. I ordered the new water pump from Jay Marks
Toyota. About $60 for the entire kit that you see below ($80+ from
local dealer). You can just purchase the water pump from your local
autoparts store, but it will not come with the o-rings or the suction
cover (that's the left hand side of the pump below).
Note: You may want to change out your timing belt
when doing the water pump (and vice versa), as removing the timing
belt is only a few bolts away. (Albeit one of those bolts is the
crank pulley's which can be a bear to get loose.) However, I chose
not to do this, as mine was just done 30k miles ago. Believe me,
the timing belt does get in the way, especially when installing
the new pump, but it is definitely doable without removing the timing
Here's a couple pics of the new pump part #16100-19115:
Here's what else I bought for this project (2gal Toyota coolant,
Prestone Super Flush, Permatex Ultra Copper & Permatex Water
pump and Thermostat Housing Gasket Maker). Not pictured, I also
purchased new alternator and AC belts, since you need to remove
Draining the old fluid:
First off, drain out as much old coolant as you can. Jack up the
back of the car higher than the front, remove the front-most underbody
cover (seven 10mm bolts), and remove either the drain bolts shown
here, or use the draincock on the bottom of the radiator. I chose
to use these 2 drain bolts, because my radiator draincock was plugged.
Make sure to remove the radiator cap and also loosen the drain cock
on the top of the radiator. This will allow air to vent into the
pipes, allowing the coolant to drain out easier.
Here's what came out. Nice and brown huh? They say this is from
mixing the Toyota red coolant with the typical Prestone green stuff.
Make sure to dispose of this stuff properly. Ya wouldn't want to
kill any of your neighbors pets now would ya???
You can chose one of two routes here. Either flush out the system
now, or go ahead and change out the pump. I decided to change out
the pump next. Here's how to go about that:
Removal of old water pump
1) Remove the 2 hoses circled below and remove the coolant reservoir
by pulling it straight up.
2) To give you 'plenty' of room to get to the water pump, remove
the radiator cap mounting tube. Do this by removing the spring clips
(shown in the square box on the right and pointed to by the red
arrow) clamping the hose to this plastic tube. Remove the two 10mm
bolts shown in the green circles. Then remove the hose going from
the radiator cap to the engine, by removing the spring cliip contained
in the left red square.
Here's the result of the above removal. You can start to see the
water pump now...
And here's the parts that you just removed:
3) Now, disconnect the 3 different wires (black, green, and blue
connectors) that will be in your way and tuck them away someplace..
4) The next thing you should do is loosen (not remove) the water
pump pulley bolts (four 10mm bolts shown in the red square). This
is alot easier to do while the belt is still in place.
To get to all the bolts on the pump pulley you will have to turn
the crank pulley. Do this by using a 17mm socket on the below circled
bolt. To make this easier to turn it's best to remove the spark
plugs. (I didn't do this however...) You have to remove the bottom
engine cover (about seven 10mm bolts) to get to this easier.
4) Remove the alternator and it's adjustor bracket. If you have
not done this before, refer to my alternator
write-up for the removal process. (some of the below steps show
the alternator in the pics still. I didn't remove it till I had
to, but I would recommend doing it now.
5) Remove the water pump pulley bolts that you loosened earlier
and remove the pulley.
6) Remove the 'coolant inlet housing' located in the red square
box (two 10mm bolts from the front and one 10mm bolt that needs
to be removed from under the car).
7) Remove timing belt cover #3. Here's a pics of the cover removed
to give you an idea of where all the 10mm bolts are located.
Here's a pic of the timing belt cover #3 removed.
8) If you have AC, remove the AC idle pulley. The below picture
already has the belts off but it should give you an idea of where
the pulley is located, between and above the crank and AC pulleys.
Use a 14mm box end wrench to remove the nut from the pulley.
The red circle below shows where the 15mm bolt (it's a real long
one) that holds the idle pulley bolt in place. Remove this bolt.
The idle pulley should now be free, so remove it and the two belts.
Here's the idle pulley after removal:
9) There are only 2 bolts holding timing cover #2 on, since #3
is out. Get to them from below the car, and here are pics of where
they are located:
Here's the one near the rear of the car, 10mm. (Ignore the fact
that the new water pump is already in, I took the pics out of order.)
And here's the one on the other side of the crank. It's right behind
the idle pulley bracket and is a pain to get to. I found a 10mm
offset boxed wrench to do the job (luckily I had one).
Here's a couple pics of the two removed timing covers. The one
on the right shows how they are assembled when on the car. Be careful
when removing timing cover #2, as the needle on the timing belt
idle pulley comes out the hole in the bottom left of the cover.
It's actually a plug that surrounds this needle, that you can remove
if you want/need to.
10) Remove the water pump bolts. There are two 12mm bolts (red
circles) & one 10mm bolt (green circle) that hold the complete
housing to the engine block. And also there's 4 other 10mm bolts
that hold the pump to the suction cover (not circled).
Remove the oil dipstick thingy, by pulling it straight out. Make
sure to cover the hole with a rag or something. Once you are sure
all the bolts are off, remove the water pump portion. It may take
some pressure on it to remove it. I had quite a bit of coolant leakage
here when I did this, since I didn't bother draining the engine
block. So make sure to have your pan close by. (Note: Feel free
to drain the engine block if you'd like to be a little neater than
me. Consult the BGB for it's location.)
11) Remove the 2 below indicated 10mm bolts, which hold the suction
cover to a coolant pipe. You can then easily remove the suction
cover from the engine bay.
A couple pics of the water pump removed. Nasty down there huh?
And here's a couple of the removed water pump and suction cover:
Removal is now complete. Goto the next
page for the install and flush process.