Home
  Links
transparent

4AGE 20V Blacktop

transparent transparent

Diary of Swap
Wiring
Transmission
Exhaust
Cooling System
Miscellaneous

Dyno

transparent

85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

transparent transparent

Wiring

transparent

Air Intake Filter
Alternator
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Starter
Thermostat
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump

transparent

87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line

transparent

Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links

transparent

87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch

transparent

2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin

transparent

Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Aftermarket Seats

 
Here's a write-up that I've been meaning to get to for a while now.

Every car has different seat mounting locations. Therefore aftermarket seat manufacturers must sell brackets specific to the car. Sometimes this is included in the price, other times not. And almost always these brackets do not contain the sliders for adjusting the seats. These sliders are an even additional cost. The good news about this is that the stock MR2 seat brackets/sliders can be reused. It just takes a bit of work, and $5 worth of metal from Home Depot.

This writeup shows you how to do this using a set of Sparco Torino II's. Just a bit of info about these seats if you are interested. These are a great comprimise between full on race seats and comfortable seats. They recline & include nice padding to make long trips or daily driving comfortable, while adding lots of support and side bolsters for more spirited driving. They are a bit on the heavy side though, especially once the mr2 sliders/brackets are added.

1) First of all detach the sliders from the stock seats. I purchased a spare set, so as not to destroy my stock seats. Sorry no pics of this step, but it's straightforward. Here's what you should end up with.

2) Now, use your favorite cut-off tool (Dremel) to remove all the unnecessary bits. The below picture shows what is safe to remove by the red lines. Do NOT remove what is circled in green. This is the mechanism for the slider adjuster.

3) Here's pics of the progress. A good set of drill bits is nice to have to drill out these rivets. Again, do not remove anything marked in green.

I didn't realize before I started priming that I could also remove this other set of teeth. The red circles mark the welds to be drilled out. Make sure you are removing the teeth from the rail WITHOUT the handle.

4) Once stripping all the now useless bits test fit the rails into the car.

5) Measure the lengths needed for the flat bar to go across the rails. I used 3/8" steel that I purchased at Home Depot. You can now cut the lengths of the bar. Cutting a bit long wouldn't hurt.

6) Make a template for the bolt locations on the new seat. Here's pic of template I used. Use this template to figure out where to drill holes in the flat bar. Since the MR2's steering wheel is shifted about one or two inches toward the center console, I tried to push the seat as far toward the console as possible. This took some test fitting of the seat in the vehicle.

7) Drill the holes in the bar and temporarily mount to the seat.

8) Now, fit the seat into the car to mark wear the bar should be welded to the rails. This is a bit cumbersome since there's not much room (much less light) under there to work.

9) Tack weld the bars to the rails and do another test fit. Making sure the seat slides smoothly front to back. And to make sure its not crooked. Make any adjustments to the bar locations as needed. Then get to welding the bars permanently to the rails.

10) Grind the welds pretty and primer everything.

Painted black.

11) Fitted to the seat (pic is prior to paint of course). Use some threadlocker on the bolts into the seat. These are a pain to get to when the seat is installed in the car, so you don't want these coming loose.

12) Installed and repeat for the other seat.


Home   •   Links  •   Email
(remove NOSPAM from resulting email address)
Thanks for Visiting! - Eric Southers

Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.